Photo: Courtesy of Danielle Williams-Eke
Early on, I never really thought of designing plus-size clothing. Truthfully, nine years into my career with a bachelor’s and master’s in fashion, I still felt that my future was to design straight-size clothing. I always wanted to design high-end contemporary womenswear. Traditional education teaches about the “fashion greats” including Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, Cristóbal Balenciaga, and more. I fell in love with them and fashion. I recently looked back through my 2009 graduation portfolio and it struck me that all the assignments included tall, slim figures, perfectly following the "nine head rule" with six-foot-tall, size-two women. Not a curve in sight. This wasn't by choice; this was how I was required to design to make the grade. The curriculum was void of any trace of plus-size fashion. One could only take this to mean that plus-size women weren't welcome in the fashion industry.
Since I am a plus-sized woman, essentially, I wasn't welcome in the fashion industry. Imagine loving and working in an industry that refused to acknowledge you. This forced many plus-size women, like me, to seek out the brands that recognized our existence. It was like a scavenger hunt. When I occasionally discovered a new brand that got it, there was a great feeling of being seen and served. I remember that feeling back in 2004 when I found Torrid for the first time while shopping for my sweet 16 outfit. While a few other plus-size lines popped up in the well-known chains, I didn't see this recognition in luxury fashion. Plus-size women weren't on runways. Designer and contemporary brands didn't produce their clothing above a size 12 or 14.
“Since I am a plus-sized woman, essentially, I wasn’t welcome in the fashion industry. ”
Then, in 2018, I discovered 11 Honoré and I knew this was something different. The brand offers plus-size high-end fashion, which was something I never thought was possible. It was around this time that I also attended The Curvy Con for the first time during New York Fashion Week. This was also the Fashion Week that Kellie Brown launched #FatAtFashionWeek. In her words, "We are here, we work in this industry, we get it, we are leaders and consumers." I felt that! I felt the shift in the atmosphere at NYFW that year. The runway was getting more inclusive. It was building on the great year before when I had the opportunity to sit in on the Christian Siriano show watching Precious Lee, Marquitta Pring, and Candice Huffine slay the runway one after the other. Things were happening!
Fast forward to November 2019. After a year of stalking the 11 Honoré career site, a colleague reached out to me. The company was ready to start their in-house brand and they wanted me to design it! The collection I never imagined would exist was the collection I would have the opportunity to create. I was playing a part in a brand that was moving the industry forward. I was in the company of legacy brands like Carolina Herrera, DVF, and Dior, who were finally moving toward inclusivity but also a part of this new wave of designers, like Henning and Baacal, whose brands were founded on inclusivity. The scavenger hunt was getting easier for this African American designer from humble beginnings.
“The fashion industry has to acknowledge the blatant prejudice that exists towards those who don’t fit the ideal beauty standards related to size and body shapes of all women.”
While there is more work to be done to normalize varying body types and shapes as well as amplifying the voices of Black people and people of color, we are moving in the right direction. I'm honored to be a part of the ride. My hope is that inclusivity and diversity become the standard.
For me, this starts with fashion education. In the same way that America has to take a good look at how we teach and talk about the history of racism in America, the fashion industry has to acknowledge the blatant prejudice that exists towards those who don't fit the ideal beauty standards related to size and body shapes of all women, particularly those of different races and ethnicities. Only after we acknowledge those faults can the industry move forward and truly reflect its consumers.
About the Author: Danielle Williams-Eke is the design director of luxury size-inclusive e-tailer 11 Honoré’s private label line, The 11 Honoré Collection. As design director, Williams-Eke spearheads the design team and production of the private label, a collection that blends modern minimalism with power dressing. The designer is quickly making a name for herself in the fashion industry as a balanced voice and leader in size inclusivity. Prior to her role at 11 Honoré, the Los Angeles-based designer oversaw the design team at Torrid. For the last decade, Williams-Eke has specialized in designing extended sizes and pioneering patterns, fits, and silhouettes for the plus-size consumer. Understanding the power of clothing is instrumental to the designer, who is influenced by classic Americana style that eludes a hint of sex appeal. “I design for a lifestyle. Women are multifaceted and when I create a collection, I keep that in mind. I’m designing clothes for moments in the 11 Honoré woman’s life.”
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